It is the holiday season again!

When you live in the United States, you get to celebrate certain holidays and they seem to come once a month… In the winters we have Halloween, then a month later you have November and with it comes Thanksgiving where everyone literally over eats on one day and then eats the same meal everyday for the next week at lunch. HaHa.

It also brings colder weather so the photography is different too. I have, of late, been using my 28mm more than anything else it seems. The wider angle giving me more of a ”scene” than a specific subject. It also gives me a lot more depth of field so getting focus is a lot easier too. You see, I tend to shoot these days with vintage manual focus lenses more often than not. I do love my modern lenses with their aftofucus and light weight construction producing wonderful images, but sometimes I just want to use something from a simpler time. I have also found the lenses that work best for me applications too. Mostly Nikkor and Asahi Optical(Pentax) lenses with a sprinkling of some others like Voigtlander and Leica just to name a few.

I will also use these lenses for things like photo walks as well as general photography.

In the above photo, I was attempting to capture blue hour in downtown with a 25mm and this shows what I am talking about a little better. The wider angle allows me to get more of a scene and tell more of a story that a tighter lens like the 50mm or 75mm would do. I would have to back up a lot more if I wanted to include all of this in a 50mm lens photo as the field of view is a great deal narrower. Another thing that comes with longer focal lengths is a phenomenon called “compression”. This is where things in the background tend to look closer together than they are in reality from the effect the lens has on the subject. The photo below shows what I am talking about with compression…

Learning how to use these effects to your own personal advantage will open up so many possibilities for you. You couldn’t get this photo on a 20mm lens, it just wont work, you need the compression of a telephoto lens to be able to “stack” all those light displays together like that. This is why it is important to get out and shoot with different focal lengths at different times of day and also in different places, it is almost impossible to learn well without “doing”…

All this to say, the holidays as a wonderful time of the year to get out and practice your photography.

Getting a fresh perspective on a common event.

Today I had a thought about what sets my Sacred Harp photos apart from everyone else’s photos.

I thought about this for a while and figured out that my goal is not to simply capture every leader (although that is kind of a side quest) but rather I want to capture the essence of the event as a whole. The reason I say this is because I see others capturing images of just the leaders and usually just from the front straight on. Now to be fair, this does produce good images but for me they are not as interesting. Hence…

When I goto a Sacred Harp singing there is a specific location that I want to be at in the room. It is near the bass section where it meets the tenor section. Now if I were more serious about the photos, and less serious about singing with the class, I would actually goto the other side of the room as most people mark time with their right hand. This makes getting a good photo, which I will spell my recipe for below, even harder since I am on their right side and their hand blocks their face alot.

My “recipe” for a good photo is as follows:

• I want them looking at the crowd and not their book if possible (I want to see their eyes)

• I would love a strong expression

• I want the face to look relaxed and not contorted from singing a strong note

• I want their hand in motion and slightly blurred from movement

• I want their face properly exposed

• I want good white balance

• I want them 75 to 80% offset to the side for deep “look space”

• Finally, I also want photos of the rest of the event (this is kinda separate but it helps tell the story)

So with that daunting list of requirements delineated let’s take a look at them a little more in depth.

I want them looking at the crowd.

This is kinda standard composition information but this creates a bond in the photo between the leader and the class visually. I want the photo to hold the viewer and have them explore the image.

I love getting a strong expression.

This is really hard to do most of the time. I have certain leaders that I know will give me this and I actually look forward to these leaders for this reason alone. This draws the viewer into the photo and lends an emotional aspect to the image.

I want the face of the leader to look relaxed.

Most of the time, when people lead, they are nervous and it shows in the photos. So I watch for them to relax a little. This usually happens towards the end of the song so I will watch for opportunities to get a better photo then if I can. Sometimes people have odd expressions when they sing as well and this contorts the face to make them look less appealing in the photo, so I will look for pauses in the music to where they might be catching their breath or their part is silent so I can grab a quick photo then. My goal here is to get them actually enjoying the song and not just leading it.

I want the motion blur of them marking time with their hand.

This gets me that “action” look that I am wanting that shows something is happening and that they are not just standing there I want that photos to show that the event is “alive” with activity if possible. By having a little motion blur from the hand moving, it does this without making the whole image blurry. At least for me, it does.

I want their face properly exposed.

This as it turns out, is a really hard thing for me to get right while on the fly. Seems there is almost always a window in the frame and the sunlight is wreaking havoc on the light meter in the camera. I do my best to compensate for this, but sometimes it just doesn’t work right and the person is almost a black silhouette. As a good photographic rule though, this is normally a well exposed part of the image.

I want good white balance.

Again, you would think this would be a no brainer, but as it turns out, this is a lot harder than you would think. You see these events happen normally in venues that are poorly lit with mixed color temperature lights so you never really know what to expect. I will normally grab a white balance value at the beginning, and again at lunch as the sunlight will dope the reading and make your pictures look yellow…

I want them offset way over to one side.

We are talking way past the rule of thirds concept as I am not trying to follow that concept at all, but rather I am wanting to tell a story and it is not about one person, but the class as a whole with the leader just one part of it. The singers are just as important so I want as many of them in the frame as possible to give more context to the image. Sometimes I get a good image and this isn’t the case like with Terry (1st at the top), but this is not what my usual goal is. He leads very uniquely and I love photographing him for this reason.

I want photos of the rest of the event.

You see, there is more than just the singers and the leaders and them singing songs. There are people just there to hear it, kids playing and people eating… Plus this is sometimes the only venue where some people ever meet up so there are lively conversations sometimes as well and lots of laughter. I want to try to capture this as well.

The desert table alone is worth the trip in my book!

This is a tall order to be sure, but I normally get one or two “real keepers” from these singings that will meet either all or nearly all of my rules for leaders. So of those rules are pretty low hanging fruit, like proper white balance, just takes me remembering to take a sample of the interior occasionally to make sure it has not changed on me. some are much harder, like getting position and facial expression and exposure right when they are moving around while they lead… Something I dont strive for though is perfectly sharp images, a little motion blur just adds character to the photo and makes it look like they are actually doing something instead of posting up static for a photo. Also I dont care if the eye isnt tack sharp either as the photo isnt a portrait but rather something closer to reportage in my mind. I like it when the eyes are sharp but it isnt on the list if you will notice. I dont list it because the story is more important to me than that aspect. I dont know why, but that is how I see it. Everyone loves the images when I share them too so I am happy with most of them too…

Do you have a favorite venue or event you like to shoot and do you have a set of personal rules that make us your perfect photo from that event? I would like to hear about your version of this story!!!

Prime lens primer

So you have never used a prime lens before… well let’s change that.

Leica CL with the TTArtisan 35mm f0.95 APS-C prime lens

A prime lens is like a window into another world of photography. They can be had in much larger apertures than zooms usually, they are smaller under most circumstances, and if you get vintage ones…they can produce very unique results.

Another thing that prime lenses are good for is they teach you to compose based on the environment. You have to work within the confines of the focal length which means you will have to either move closer or further away to “zoom” with your feet to get your composition. Sometimes this means not getting a certain shot at all because you would have to stand in the middle of a river to get the composition or something like that. But I rarely run into this problem and once I start seeing in focal length it seems I filter out these problems subconsciously anyway.

Leica CL with the TTArtisan 17mm f1.4 APS-C lens.

You will also learn to see in your chosen focal length over time as well. That is, once you shoot a while with just one focal length… You hear street photographers talk about the 28 or the 35 and they know what the photo is going to look like based on experience.

I will be honest here, it is really liberating to have such a small and potent setup when I run prime lenses. Zoom lenses give you versatility, but I see people that use zoom lenses still carrying a camera bag. This seems overly redundant to me, I use the one lens all day and get out in the environment, but I am not everyone. Some people prefer to have all the options on hand so they can setup and shoot whatever comes their way I guess. Maybe they have missed a opportunity in the past while using a prime and now want the versatility of a zoom to give them better odds in the future should that happen again, I don’t know. Those are some of the speculations I have had, but for me, I just like having something dedicated like the prime brings to the table.

Zoom lenses do serve a purpose though, they are the work horses of the professional photography world. Giving the professional the ability to change focal lengths instantly on demand to fulfill the job at hand. Primes force the professional to move around a lot more to build the composition that the zoom makes short work of. This is important when you are on a clock. Anything that saves time also saves money so zooms have their uses.

So what makes a prime appealing over a zoom? That large aperture and the small size are some of the magic that the zoom lens lacks.

Lenses like the one above with it’s f0.95 maximum aperture can create an effect that nothing else can produce. The “Bokeh” or blurred out background is something that large apertures are well known for. The portrait below is a prime example of the feature. The background was probably 15 feet behind him when I shot this photo.

Primes lenses come into their own when it comes to vintage lenses too. This is where I have found my passion. The old Pentax glass along with the Nikon and early Canon stuff is all phenomenal. I do have some early Leica stuff but the Pentax / Asahi branded glass is just awesome. I also will try about anything to see what the photos are like as well. I have even adapted some glass that should not be able to be adapted like some Argus lenses. I documented that process on my YouTube channel if you want to see how I was able to make that work. Argus had a unusual way to drive the focus on the lens and it posed a challenge to get it to work.

One of my favorite vintage lens brands is Pentax and the Asahi Optical company.

With the advent of the mirrorless camera, we now have a flange distance that is conducive to adapting these vintage lenses to our cameras easily and the electronics in the camera make using these lenses even easier than ever as well. Things like focus magnification and focus peaking as well as exposure preview to see how the image will look before you press the shutter are great for coupling vintage primes to your new shiny mirrorless camera. Some even allow image stabilization via sensor stabilization so you even get that feature with vintage glass sometimes.

So if you have not used prime lenses in the past, I implore you to get a simple one, like the 50mm f1.8 on full frame (affectionately named the “nifty fifty”) or it’s APS-C little brother, the 35mm f1.8 DX (Nikon uses the term DX for their APS-C cameras) and put it on your hobby camera and leave it there for a month. It will either make you hate primes or fall in love with them. For me I got the 35mm f1.8, installed it on my Nikon D7000 and left it for almost a year without removing it. I really loved that lens.

So until next time, get your camera out and go take some photos with it!

Minimalist YouTuber Kit

So I get the question from time to time, “What do I need to make YouTube videos?” In the past I have always had this convoluted answer that included WAY too much stuff.

My current camera is a DJI Osmo Action on a GoPro Selfie stick that has a tripod in the base.

Now I have been making videos for a while and have found, what I feel, is the perfect “location” kit that can do double duty for your studio kit in a pinch.

Videos can be made with virtually any device these days. Anything from your smart phone, to a ARRI Alexa is in use on YouTube. What I have found for me that works really well though is a good action camera. I have used GoPro cameras with great success as well as my current machine, the DJI OSMO Action. Mine is the “gen 1” camera so they are really inexpensive now, and it works great once you learn its limitations. The main things I like about this little camera is that it has the front screen to help with framing the shot and that it has REALLY good stabilization for something so small. It is so good that I don’t bother with a gimbal at all. It isn’t perfect, but it is good enough for me.

The tripod is a nice touch and I use this more than I like to admit as it is so handy. The only problem is that I still have to find a surface tall enough to set it on to get the shot I want.

This is something that lots of creators forget for some reason, batteries and lots of them, especially if you plan to shoot a lot of B roll as well as A roll. I carry at least 3 on every trip and usually more if they are charged. Batteries are cheap and you dont want to have to shut down a project to charge a dead battery…

Next thing I like to have is this little GoPro to cold shoe adapter that allows for POV recording on your camera hot shoe. This is awesome for the times when you want to share how you got the shot as well as the finished product.

Now we are done with video and the next thing we have to address is sound. No one will watch your videos if your sound is trash. It is true. Just try to do it yourself and you will see, sound is arguably more important than the video footage itself. So I learned a while back to record audio off camera with a separate recorder, this was before the on camera solutions were so prevalent and I still use it today because it works so well. This is the Zoom F1 field recorder and it comes with the lav mic in the picture. It works REALLY well and allows you to get audio when you are far from the camera as well as right up next to it. Shotgun mics that mount on the camera work great for talking to the camera footage but don’t work when you want to get a shot of you away from the camera and are still talking about what you are doing. This is why I like separated audio. It is pretty simple to sync up in the video editor too so it isn’t a problem for me to do it this way.

This is a wind muff, loving called a “dead cat” by the Rode microphone company…lol. It stops the wind noise when you are outside and softens the audio somewhat too, I love these and use them literally everywhere when recording audio. Even when I don’t need them.

Of course these are spare batteries for the recorder as it uses standard AAA batteries so I keep some in the little bag in case my rechargeables go dead before I am finished for some reason. These have saved a shoot more than once…

I bought this lens pouch off of eBay to house the “kit” so that it is a ready to go system that I can just grab when I want to work on a video. It was not very expensive at the time since it was used and works really well and since it is Thinktank Photo is even has a rain cover in the base of it! A lot of times I will wear it on my belt just to have to extra pocket it provides. It is perfect for my needs here.

Did you see or notice anything that is missing or that needs updating? Let me know! Then get your camera out and go take some photos!!!

Recent events that happen this time of year in my photography...

I hope your having a good day where ever you are in the world. Recently I have been doing several different genres of photography and they are typical of what I shoot this time of year. Things that include trips to a fall themed event, or rock climbing, in particular, bouldering, and low light stuff like I did with Phil and Ray the other night.

So there has not been some sort of overlying theme, but more to the point of Autumn Activities instead(which I guess is a theme, isnt it?). This year has been really a whirlwind too as it seems that work has been crazy this year and I am picking up amateur radio more so I don’t have as much time for making videos for my YouTube channel (that to be honest, no one really watched anyway and I have been more focused on my website blogs due to this revelation) So now, I have noticed a shift in my focus from making YouTube content to enjoying my hobbies of photography and amateur radio. This is big for me as I am now getting out and shooting more and the results are starting to accumulate. The bulk of my photos are terrible in my mind and never make it out of the initial culling, but some of them are gems that I like and will share. I think this is because I am actually shooting more so I am starting to see more around me. This only comes from getting out and shooting photos. No amount of research or watching videos on the internet will give you this skill, you just have to put in the time doing it and now I am doing just that.

Now that I am getting out to shoot more, I am also noticing something else. I am learning the gear better and noticing things about my camera and how I have it setup that are problems and need correcting and building out things like my user profiles so I can easily recall the settings for certain kinds of photography or lens setups I like to use regularly.

Another thing I have noticed is that I am getting more comfortable with photographing people. This has been a huge stumbling block for me, but over time I have come to the realization that most people just don’t care. The ones that do care will let you know and i just deescalate by deleting their image anyway as I don’t want to have photos of someone who isn’t happy with me taking the photo anyway. That turns into a win win in my book, I don’t go to extremes or let people inspect my equipment like letting them go through the memory card or anything, but if they ask I always delete the image. It is just how I operate.

I was talking not long ago with Phil about shooting in low light and he made a good point, he waits till winter to do his low light images as it gets dark earlier and he doesn’t have to stay up late to get cool night photos… There is some wisdom in this that I have learned over the summer as well. I did a bunch of low light photos then and he is right, I ended up not getting into bed till well after 11 on many days.

The results were awesome with the photos I got, but I did have to stay up really late to get them. Something else I noticed was that it is a very different mindset when you are gathering content for a YouTube video as opposed to just shooting for yourself and looking for the images that you want to capture instead of trying to collect content for a video. You see, with video content collection, you end up looking for specific images to highlight talking points in the video and not photos that are interesting or particularly good in any real way other than to showcase that specific talking point. When I go shoot now, I just look at my surroundings and make photos of what interests me. No cross platform thought process or video centric stuff. Just photos. This has been quite liberating since starting the channel back in 2017. I fell like a weight has been lifted from me and I am free to explore the world and document it without the burden of video content creation.

Let that sink in for a minute. Shoot for you, not the internet, not for Instagram, not for Vero, not for Facebook, but for YOU. If you will do this you will soon see that your photos will start getting better and you will enjoy photography.

Now get your camera out and go take a picture with it!

Photographing Sacred Harp singings with a Leica/Nikon hybrid system

First, yes, you read that right. I shoot my Sacred Harp singings with a Nikon lens adapted to the Leica SL2. This is for 4 reasons, well maybe 5 but the fifth is trivial in my book.

1. I really like the images from my Leica SL2 camera plus the interaction with the camera is just plain fun.

2. I did some experimenting and found that I shoot most of the photos at these events at about 105mm give or take a little.

3. In my opinion, the Nikon 105mm f2 DC Nikkor lens is one of the finest portrait lenses available in this focal length.

4. The f2 maximum aperture on the 105mm lens also gives me another stop of light in dimly lit buildings too.

5. Trivial, but I like to use manual focus, it is part of that interaction with the camera that I just plain enjoy.

Let’s expand on these a little and see if there is someting in here that will help you when you shoot certain events or subjects.

The image quality of the Leica SL2 is hard to beat. The features in that camera that I REALLY like are things like the EVF, the IBIS works better than any other I have ever used, the colors are amazing right out of camera, I can confidently handhold this camera, with a vintage 105mm lens mind you, and shoot at 1 second confidently and get sharp photos. That in itself is s a feat of engineering. The Electronic View Finder is the next reason I love this camera. The EVF has such high resolution that it doesn’t seem like a display but more like a window, it just has to be seen to understand. The 47 megapixel sensor also gives me plenty of image to do some creative cropping to adjust compositions at times to correct for things like having to hurry to get the moment captured and knowing that I can cut a significant amount of the image away and it will still look great is always a bonus. I have really come to understand why people like certain devices when they engage in an activity, if it is the right tool for the job AND you enjoy using it, the product of this will be stellar!

In days gone by I have used an array of cameras and lenses to photograph these singings. Some were large rigs like the Nikon D810 with battery grip and the 70-200mm f2.8 telephoto zoom, and some were small, like the Fuji XT3 with a vintage 55mm f1.8 Asahi Optical prime lens. I looked back over several of these singings and started noticing that I was ending up on the 105mm focal length more and more when I would be using zoom lenses. Now of course this is not possible when using a prime lens, but I was still favoring longer focal lengths instead of wide angle lenses. So I decided to do some experimenting and used my 24-90mm Leica zoom and found that I shot most of the images with the lens racked fully out and wanted to have even more zoom… I even ran this giant lens on the Leica CL once and still found I had most photos at the longer end of the range. So I started using the 105mm and it is the right focal length for capturing the actual song leaders as well as the candid photos in the breaks between sessions as well.

Another reason I really like the 105mm f2 is that it is a stellar lens to pair with the SL2. The performance of this lens is really good with minimal artifacts and it has three features not available on many other lenses (well not on many NEWER lenses). The Defocus Control, an aperture ring AND the large aperture (more on this in a minute). The Defocus Control really is a trivial item to be honest. It only changes the out of focus areas of the photo ever so slightly, but it does add for a smoother background when shooting wide open (which I tend to do for two reasons). I normally set the defocus control to “2B” and just leave it there, this adds a little to the image that is hard for people to describe and it keeps me from having to remember to check it if I go outside on a break or at lunch or the sun starts spilling though the window and I end up stopping down for some reason. You see, if the defocus control is set higher than the aperture on the lens, it does strange things to the photo and it is not appealing, so less is more here.

Aperture is a big deal, just ask anyone who shoots photos indoors, the bigger the better. This is not for those blurry backgrounds either, although this is a byproduct, it is more because the rooms are normally very dimly lit and this helps keep the ISO down below 1Trillion…I normally shoot wide open for this reason alone, but if the building has windows and there is a good bit of light in the room , I will stop down to f4, but that is about it. Actually, I don’t think I have ever deliberately stopped down past f4 indoors ever. There just isn’t enough light…

This is going to be controversial but I like manual focus. I don’t know why exactly. but I like it. It is something to do with the interaction with the equipment, I just enjoy tinkering and this is something to tinker with. The fact that the focus isn’t looking for what I want to grab and then grabbing someone else, is a comforting feeling. The 105mm f2 is also manual aperture, so I get to control that manually too, although I rarely change this for reasons mentioned above. This rig is a fairly heavy system too, with the camera being a pro camera and the lens also being of the pro variety these are built very well and will last a lifetime with minimal maintenance.

All photos in this blog were taken at the 2022 United Sacred Harp Convention at Antioch Baptist Church in Ider, Alabama. These events are usually held at churches and the acoustics are usually really good because of this, but the light is dim…

Another thing I try to do is capture the “atmosphere” of the event as well. This means that I am taking photos of everything, not just the song leaders. I will get photos of the kids playing, people talking, the food tables (this is a rule or something that the photog HAS to get the food tables LOL) so it tells a more complete story than just song leading. A particularly special thing to record is the children and the elderly as these statistically are the ones that will change the most in just a few years. So I really try to get these people photographed so people will be able to remember them more easily. Also something I have learned to photograph at ALL events is ANY candid opportunity that involved emotion. The photo of Cass and Isaac above is a great example of this. These types of photos are honestly very hard to capture unless you spend a lot of time just watching and then you can get them fairly easily. They are fleeting moments and sometimes they are also “built” on a scene that you can predict as you watch it develop. You will learn to get these kinds of photos if you just watch the scene around you for a while.

If you have not found a niche genre of photography for you, I implore you to do some exploration and find something that you like a lot and then get your camera out and do some photos to see if it is your niche.

If you want to learn more about Sacred Harp or you want to try to find a singing to go hear it, follow this link to the FaSoLa.org website.

FaSoLa Website